Keeping tropical fish

by Walter Spanner

Like it or not, your fish will at some time or another become ill. You can reduce the amount of illness just by keeping the water quality of your tank very good, and as I have said before, regular water changes will keep the tank in good shape.

Here is a diagram of a fish and I will point out the problem areas and associated illnesses that they get from time to time.

Here are some of the more common illnesses. The success rate is quite good but do not get too upset if the remedies don't always work - Fish get old just like the rest of us!

I find a product called Melifix, which is a natural medicine made from Tea Tree Oil particularly useful. I use it on my Silver Sharks when they get Cloudy eyes or if they damage there skin. It has always worked for me, but it is not to be said it will always work.

Symptons of illness

It could be......

Your new fish have died - there are no obvious signs of illness "New Tank Syndrome" Adding fish to a brand new aquarium stresses the fish, and sometimes it can be fatal. For more info, check out our earlier sections.

Loss of appetite - An enviromental problem, newly-introduced fish can be slow to feed (stress), certain fishes will refuse anything but live foods. Enviromental: inspect for any manifestations of disease, and get a basic water tester (Ammonia etc). The same with stress. Be patient with them.

Looking at the diagram, check for other signs of disease.

Area 1) Small, white spots on the head, body and fins. Whitespot (Ichthyophthirius) A very common disease (especially in a new aquarium). There are several formulas around, dose the fish quickly before the parasite spreads. Salt could be used (1 teaspoon per galloon).

2 &3) Cotton Wool effect on the body Fungus, Columnarius (Mouth fungus) If you see this disease, you can use medication (ie "Anti Fungus") and a Salt bath (1 teaspoon per gallon)

4) Fish are gasping, on the bottom of the aquarium, red streaks around gills Most probably oxygen starvation, or a Gill disease You have too many fish, an air punp may help. Gill diseases are quite rare, you could actually see the gills rot away: use medication.

5) Worms are visibly seen hanging from the gills, fish are gasping Gill Worm (Dactylogyrus) This is another parasite. Use anti-parasite drugs as directed.

6) Dull colour (mucus), detached skin, fraying of the fin. Mucus Hyperproduction. This called by caused by Slime disease (parasite, meds available), poor water conditioners (high Nitrogenous wastes), fFukes, stress.

7) Redness of the skin, or red streaks in the fins Virus, Ulcers (Bacterial infection) Viruses can only be seen through microscopes - and it's incurable. With a bacterial disease, use a anti-bacteria or anti-internal treatment. A prolonged SALT bath (3-5 g/litre for several days) will alliviate osmoregulatory stress in the case of severe ulceration. Scales seem to be raised, fish are bloated. Dropsy (Ascites) Dropsy is more of a sympton than an actually disease yet, and is quite common. Most associated with a bacterial infection (cause could be wide - poor water conditions are often the culprit. Meds can be used, but dont always work. Small, worm like parasites attached to fish, fish scraping against rocks. Anchor worm (lernea) There are many Crustacean Parasites around, and can be exported into your water. Meds are available.

8) Fraying of the soft tissue (fin membrane) Fin Rot, the disintegration of the fins Use medication before a secondary infection occurs, it will take several days before there is serious fin damage. Could use salt bath (1 teaspoon per gallon) Appearance of a whitish film over the eye of the fish Poor water quality, poisoning (Chlorine) or Eye Fluke Poor water: Water changes are required. Poisoning: Make sure to condition tap water. Eye Fluke: Use medication

A word of warning when using medication: Obviously people want to save their fish, so they go and buy a product, and sometimes these can be quite effective. But a word of warning - some medicines can be very detrimental in the long term. Treatments whitch use Malachite Green and Methylene Blue can be useful treatments for parasites and Fungus, unfortunately they can also destroy our beneficial bacteria, and then you can get a Ammoni/Nitrite peak for some time. Also some medicines demand it that they remove Carbon/Zeolite for the duration of the treatment - this can effectively start up a mini-cycle as the Carbon/Zeolite have lost their bacteria.

Salt bath: So a salt bath is a good way of treating the fish without damaging the bacteria we need. It is a good antiseptic and fungicide. If you are using high doses, its best to try to gradually raise the concentration, so the fish don't become stressed. Sometimes it can be effective to use a short salt bath, with higher salt concentration (such as fungal infection - 10G/Litre for 30 min).

So, we are looking for:-

 

 

1) No fungal infection around the mouth, no erosion.
2) No "Pop-eye" (no bulging) eyes are clear.
3) Scales are in good condition; scales are flat aqainst the body.
4) No signs of erosion; fins are not clamped against the body.
5) No signs of disease; no spots, ulcers, haemorrhaging, or any mucus/slime around the body.
6) Faeces is in good conditions; not stringy, good in terms of recent diet.
7) Belly is not bloated; it is slightly convex, or flat.
8) Gills are not flared; (Unless the fish is diplaying for breeding or aggresion purposes). No worms, or mucus around the gills. Normal respiration rate.

Walter will be pleased to answer readers fish keeping queries.

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